Thirty global brands are demanding the Cambodian government launch an immediate investigation into the killing and detention of garment workers in Phnom Penh earlier this month.
HENG SINITH / AP FILE PHOTO
Striking garment workers throw objects at riot police during a strike near a factory of Canadia Center on the outskirts of Phnom Penh, Cambodia on Jan. 3. At least three people were killed when police opened fire to break up the protest.
Thirty global brands are demanding the Cambodian government launch an immediate and thorough investigation into the killing and detention of garment workers in the capital of Phnom Penh earlier this month.
Stating that the use of deadly force against workers “will not result in long-term industrial peace,” brands including H&M, Adidas, Gap Inc., Walmart and Levi Strauss and Co. forewarn in a letter to Prime Minister Hun Sen that a return to peace is necessary to “rebuild our confidence in the garment industry,” which accounts for more than 90 per cent of the nation’s exports.
The move is a significant advance from the appeal made two weeks ago by a much smaller coalition that was supported largely by corporate managers from the ranks of sustainability and communications. This initiative includes such high level executives as H&M’s general manager for global production, the director of sourcing for Marks & Spencer, the vice-president of global sourcing for Nike and the chief executive officer of UK women’s wear chain Bonmarché.
“This is really signalling that brands expect action,” says Lynda Yanz, executive director of the Maquila Solidarity Network, a worker rights group. “We really hope that Canadian brands will step up to the plate now.”
One Canadian brand has. Lululemon Athletica has added its name to the roster of high-profile companies expressing “grave concern” over the killing of four garment workers, the wounding of 37 others and the detention of 23 at a prison four hours outside the capital after crackdowns on Jan. 2 and 3.
“Violence and destruction of property are not legitimate tools of industrial action and punitive measure should be taken against the individuals who commit those acts,” the coalition states, referring to skirmishes that saw rock-throwing garment workers square off against police with AK-47s. However, the statement continues, action against the workers’ legal right to organize “is counterproductive to re-establishing social dialogue in the garment industry.”
The rights of detainees, addressing ongoing civil and trade union rights issues, respecting the protection of freedom of association and kick-starting the wage-setting process are central to the brands’ message.
“By taking this action we are standing with other brands and industry groups to help ensure the safety and rights of people working in the garment industry in Cambodia,” says Lululemon’s senior vice-president of sustainability, Therese Hayes, via email.
For months garment workers have been demanding a doubling of the current monthly minimum wage to $160 (U.S.). For months the government has failed to honour its pledge to establish a process for wage-setting. The brand coalition recommends that the government accept the assistance of the International Labor Organization in getting that job done.
“Bangladesh brought back attention to the garment industry and sweatshop conditions,” Lynda Yanz says of the Rana Plaza disaster that killed more than 1,100 workers. “But with Bangladesh we were dealing with such a life and death situation. Here in Cambodia we’re back to a totally fundamental issue and that is that of wages. Workers simply can not afford to live on the wages being paid. A whole sector is mobilizing.”
The brand group has asked for a Feb. 3 meeting with strongman prime minister Hun Sen. In the meantime, NGOs are strategizing on the issue of compensation to the families of the dead and to the wounded. Undoubtedly, brand names will again be in the spotlight.
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