Thomas Cristofoletti for The New York Times
By KEITH BRADSHER
The New York Times
Published: April 8, 2013
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — Tiffany & Company is quietly building a
diamond-polishing factory in Cambodia, a country popularly associated
more with killing fields and land mines than baubles.
Some of Japan’s biggest manufacturers are also rushing to set up
operations in Phnom Penh to make wiring harnesses for cars and touch
screens and vibration motors for cellphones. European companies are not
far behind, making dance shoes and microfiber sleeves for sunglasses.
Foreign companies are flocking to Cambodia for a simple reason. They
want to limit their overwhelming reliance on factories in China.
Problems are multiplying fast for foreign investors in China.
Blue-collar wages have surged, quadrupling in the last decade as a
factory construction boom has coincided with waning numbers of young people interested in factory jobs.
Starting last year, the labor force has actually begun shrinking
because of the “one child” policy and an aging population.
“Every couple days, I’m getting calls from manufacturers who want to move their businesses here from China,” said Bradley Gordon, an American lawyer in Phnom Penh.
But multinationals are finding that they can run from China’s rising
wages but cannot truly hide. The populations, economies and even
electricity output of most Southeast Asian countries are smaller than in
many Chinese provinces, and sometimes smaller than a single Chinese
city. As companies shift south, they quickly use up local labor supplies
and push wages up sharply.
While wages and benefits often remain below levels needed to provide
proper housing and balanced diets, the manufacturing investment —
foreign direct investment in Cambodia rose 70 percent last year from
2011 — is starting to raise millions of people out of destitution.
“People along the Mekong River are being lifted out of poverty by
foreign investment inflows driven by higher Chinese wages,” said Peter
Brimble, the senior economist for Cambodia at the Asian Development
Bank.
Only a smattering of companies, mostly in low-tech sectors like garment
and shoe manufacturing, are seeking to leave China entirely. Many more
companies are building new factories in Southeast Asia to supplement
operations in China. China’s fast-growing domestic market, large
population and huge industrial base still make it attractive for many
companies, while productivity in China is rising almost as fast as wages
in many industries.
Foreign investment in China nonetheless slipped 3.5 percent last year,
after rising every year since 1980 except 1999, during the Asian
financial crisis, and 2009, during the global financial crisis. Still,
at $119.7 billion, foreign investment in China continues to dwarf
investment elsewhere. By comparison, investment in Cambodia rose to $1.5
billion. “People are not looking for exit strategies from China,
they’re looking to set up parallel operations to hedge their bets,” said
Bretton Sciaroni, another American lawyer here. Among Japanese makers,
Sumitomo is making wiring harnesses for cars, Minebea is assembling
parts for cellphones and Denso is about to start production of
motorcycle ignition components. Bloch, a European shoemaker, is here
while Oakley is making sleeves for its sunglasses.
Foreign investment also increased sharply last year in Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar and the Philippines.
As companies compete for employees, working conditions in the region are
improving. Pactics, a Belgian-run company that is the world’s largest
maker of microfiber sleeves for luxury sunglasses, has introduced
employee benefits that were previously rare in Cambodia, like medical
insurance, accident insurance, education allowances and free lunches.
Because costs are extremely low in Cambodia, where a visit to the doctor
may cost only a couple of dollars, overall compensation for each worker
is still less than $130 a month. At the company’s factory on the
outskirts of Shanghai, workers doing the same tasks earn $560 to $640 a
month, including government-mandated allowances, said Piet Holten, the
company’s president.
Cambodian workers sew 15 to 30 percent fewer sleeves per day than their
Shanghai counterparts, but productivity in Cambodia has been catching
up. “I will never get it up to China, but the cost is less than a third
of China’s, and China only gets more expensive,” Mr. Holten said.
Overall monthly compensation for industrial workers has jumped as much
as 65 percent in the last five years in Cambodia, although from such a
low base that workers here remain among the poorest in Asia. A decade
ago, workers flocked to newly opened factories in Phnom Penh that posted
hiring notices, but “today, you put a notice on a factory and you don’t
have anybody come,” said Sandra D’Amico, the managing director of HR
Inc. Cambodia, a human resources company.
Production has been crippled in recent weeks at numerous Taiwanese-owned
garment factories in eastern Cambodia producing simple garments like
bathing suits after Japanese factories moved in to make more
sophisticated products like business suits and gloves — and offered
higher pay and benefits.
At the Phnom Penh Special Economic Zone here in central Cambodia,
Minebea is trying to attract workers by building a modern, four-story
dormitory for 2,000 people with six beds to a room and a large
recreation hall — a big change from the plywood houses with thatched
roofs in which millions of Cambodians still live. The Laurelton Diamonds
unit of Tiffany has already driven pilings for a modern,
95,000-square-foot factory across the street to polish small diamonds,
and is seeking international “green building” accreditation for the
project.
Employment at the zone is doubling this year, to 20,000 workers, and is
projected to redouble to 40,000 in the next several years, said Hiroshi
Uematsu, the zone’s managing director.
Skeptics like David J. Welsh, the Cambodia representative of the
A.F.L.-C.I.O.’s Solidarity Center, say that rising food and housing
costs prevent many workers from fully benefiting from rising wages. Ken
Loo, the secretary general of the Garment Manufacturers Association in
Cambodia, said that his industry needed to resist workers’ demands for
further pay increases so as to preserve its international
competitiveness.
Tatiana Olchanetzky, a manufacturing consultant to companies in the
handbag and luggage industry, said that she had analyzed the costs in
her industry of moving operations from China to the Philippines,
Cambodia, Vietnam and Indonesia. She found that any savings were very
small because China produces most of the fabrics, clasps, wheels and
other materials required for the bag trade, and these would have to be
shipped to other countries if final assembly moved there.
But some factories have moved anyway, at the request of Western buyers
who fear depending exclusively on a single country.
While moving to a new country with an unproved supply chain is a risk,
Ms. Olchanetzky said, “They think there’s a risk in staying in China,
too.”
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