Why go?
Most visitors go to Siem Reap to see the temples of Angkor, three miles north of the city: dozens of 9th- to 12th-century ruins, from its best known, Angkor Wat, to intriguing Ta Prohm, entwined in jungle, and the enigmatic faces of Bayon. A pass (£27) can be spread over a week, so you can break up days roaming the ruins by exploring elsewhere. Rewarding activities include a boat ride to the stilt village of Kampong Phluk or a cookery course, and the day and night markets are colourful places to pick up a bargain.
On Saturdays there's a classical concert in aid of a children's hospital (www.beatocello.com), while a 40-minute film (£2) about the Khmer Rouge years is shown several times an evening at the night market. There's a lively stretch of restaurants and bars on Pub Street, or for a more sophisticated setting, have a drink at the Foreign Correspondents' Club or Raffles by the river.
RIVERSIDE INDULGENCE
LA RESIDENCE D'ANGKOR
LOCATION
Central yet tranquil, on the east bank of the Siem Reap River. A 10-minute walk or three minutes by tuk-tuk to the Old Market area.
CHARACTER
Since buying La Residence in 2006, Orient-Express has given it the five-star treatment. Wood and greenery preside: beyond the teak-clad reception, walkways lead among lush gardens to sturdy, elegant two-storey buildings. Teak balconies overlook the appealing swimming pool area. You can see the river from the airy first-floor bar, with inviting sofas, whirring ceiling fans and a happy hour. There's a smart new spa, a small gym, free WiFi and guest computers, books and board games.
ROOMS
54, plus eight suites. Our spacious deluxe room featured firm beds, a dreamy, oval soapstone bath and giant sliding doors between bathroom and bedroom.
FOOD
Tasty and well-presented Khmer and international cuisine is on offer at the upmarket Dining Room Restaurant: Mekong lobster and crab salad (£10) was a winner and the thrice-weekly Apsara (Cambodian dance) shows are touching rather than cheesy. The BBQ restaurant is less formal. Breakfast is a very decent buffet.
WE LIKE
You'd never know that half of La Residence's guests arrive with a tour operator: it feels intimate, cosmopolitan and peaceful.
NOT SO KEEN
Though the pool is fabulous, there's an invisible underwater obstacle – beware of crashing into it mid-length.
ESSENTIALS
From £149 per room b & b, through W & O Travel Tropical Locations (0845 277 3310; www.wandotravel.com)
Getting there
Several Asian carriers fly from London to Siem Reap via cities such as Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok. Total journey time, excluding transit, is around 15 hours. Siem Reap airport is 20 minutes from the centre; most hotels pick you up. Buses from the capital Phnom Penh take six hours; the Mekong Express (£7.50) is a good option, with drinks and snacks included and a halfway stop. You can also travel by boat (six hours; £24) from Phnom Penh. You can walk safely in Siem Reap by day and in busier places after dark, but take tuk-tuks (a motorbike towing a cart for up to about four people) in quieter areas; a local ride is about £1.50.
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