A Change of Guard

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Sunday 10 November 2013

Cambodia’s “Central Market”

Posted on November 9, 2013 | By Michelle Newman
A merchant sits all day waiting for customers
A merchant sits all day waiting for customers
Now, don’t be confused, we’re not talking about the same HEB Central Market that we know and love in Alamo Heights –this is Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s central market, a huge one-stop-shop.

Sea slugs are considered a local delicacy
Sea slugs are considered a local delicacy
In addition to exotic fresh fruits and veggies, many I didn’t recognize – just about everything imaginable is for sale here. There’s  even a beauty shop on the premises with  ladies waiting in line to get their hair cut or permed.
Cooking delicious tea cakes over a traditional charcoal grill
Cooking delicious tea cakes over a traditional charcoal grill

It’s noisy, smelly, loud and dimly lit – yet it’s a vibrant hub of life buzzing with wound up energy. Chickens are clucking away, snake-like sea creatures slithering out of their holding tanks onto the floor, babies squealing, squatting women gossiping with one another, and locals noisily slurping noodles in a filthy snack bar.
I stopped and watched a women bent over a portable odd-shaped clay oven making petite tea-cakes in a flower-shaped mold. She carefully poured the batter into the  mold and within seconds I was seduced by the enticing aroma and had to try one. It was delicious combination, half cake and half waffle – sweet, light and fluffy, a good combination of flavor and texture.

A lingering stench combined with the burdensome humidity and stifling temperature was unbearable. The stagnant air just hung like a big invisible cloud enveloping the dreary market, but somehow Sihanoukville’s central market was bustling life. There was no way out of this maze with crowded aisles of people hurriedly going about their daily business.


Dried shrimp and other dried fish are common ingredients in Cambodian cooking
Dried shrimp and other dried fish are common ingredients in Cambodian cooking
Jumping over stagnant puddles of muddy water, I navigated my way through row after row of small stalls, hurrying past the smelly fish area with large mounds of tiny dried shrimp, fish and squid, to the area with household items and kitchen tools. I bought an odd handmade veggie shredder and two exquisitely woven bamboo soup ladles for just a few dollars. I was pleasantly surprised at the impressive selection of kitchen tools that did all kinds of fancy shredding and crinkle cuts. I’m still kicking myself for not buying the hand carved bone Buddha charm with silver trim for only $8.00.

Always negotiate the price before hopping onboard a Tut Tut
Always negotiate the price before hopping onboard a Tut Tut
After my shopping excursion, I met up with some friends for an afternoon of touring around town in a Tut Tut (motorized rickshaw). My friend Jerrol, a woman of the world, negotiated the transaction with the skill of a NYC lawyer. Jerrol advised to always do this BEFORE stepping into the Tut Tut to avoid being at the driver’s mercy after your adventure. Good advice.
Photos and text by Michelle Newman

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