A Change of Guard

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Monday, 1 October 2012

Eco-heaven in Cambodia

Song Saa Islands the next wave of ultra-deluxe resorts with a conscience.
  • Published: 1/10/2012
  • Bangkok Post
  • Writer: Philip Heijmans
In the Koh Rong archipelago off the Cambodian southwest coast is a little piece of paradise seldom known in the country. White sandy beaches and luxury accommodations are the first qualities that come to mind, but Song Saa Islands, affectionately known as the sweetheart islands, also serve another purpose.
Schools of fish hop fearlessly above the glossy blue glare of the water below, while colourful hornbills and sea eagles sit atop the mangroves, confident and proud. It’s the result of a huge conservation effort that is all the difference between your standard luxury resort and a far more illuminating eco-paradise.
Located 29 kilometres from Sihanoukville Port, the two-island resort is always all-inclusive, with unlimited access to its all-star kitchen staff, designer villas and guided tours.
It also includes pickup by boat or helicopter, an experience worthy of mention as you are overwhelmed with feelings of discovering of an exotic yet luxurious landscape for the first time. It is a feeling that harkens back to The Man with the Golden Gun, when James Bond arrives on Thailand’s Koh Khao Phingkan. Koh Rong has all the feeling of Thailand 40 years ago, sans the three-nippled arch-villain and weapon of mass destruction.
“It is the private island concept. You come and you’re in Cambodia and get to do what you want to do,” said Dr Wayne McCallum, director of conservation at Song Saa.
“People can come, who have an attraction with the environment and community, and the opportunity to participate in that, but the island is about you coming and then deciding to do what it is that you want to do.”
Island by Design
The two islands of Song Saa stand not one kilometre apart and are conjoined by a sleek wooden bridge. Surrounded by a large marine conservation area, the main island has 27 designer villas, some of which are located ocean-side, while the others are nestled in the rainforest close by.
The island also has a number of great facilities, including a gym, two different and equally amazing restaurants, a private treatment centre and activities centre for booking guided tours and renting basically anything you want to engage in water sport.
The second island, called Koh Bong, is just as stunning—an all encompassing rainforest with little more than a few signs to give you directions as you trek around and discover exciting birdlife and rocky ocean views perfect for a tranquil moment. It’s a dramatic example of unspoiled terrain that is becoming more and more of a rarity in Cambodia.
Hand-designed by co-owner Melita Hunter, each of the 27 villas of Song Saa is as elegant as it is charming. Fully stocked with wine, beer and Champagne, your new home greets you with a charcuterie and cheese platter and smoothing music. The bedrooms contain exquisite furnishings down to the very last detail. The walls are lined with unique decor—local paintings and sculptures made from driftwood — while your bathroom comes with a rainfall shower and marble bathtub — all with spectacular sea horizon views.
Stepping out the back of the villa is no less thrilling as you explore your very-own private beach and infinity pool overlooking the magnificent Gulf of Thailand. Have a gander at the room menu and enjoy a light snack or meal at your outdoor gazebo any time of the day.
Otherwise, the island is equipped with restaurants featuring gourmet western and Khmer, and sometimes fusion dishes invented by accomplished chef Neil Wagner and his more than capable Khmer staff. Ready to cook at a moment’s notice, some of Wagner’s signature dishes include a magnificent octopus risotto and frog leg curry.
For the less ambitious, there are several terrific western choices including steak doused with local Kampot peppers and freshly delivered garden salads. At the Driftwood Bar, meanwhile, there order up any number of cocktails, including one of Song Saa’s own infused vodka blends, with a range of flavours from ginger to Mars Bar. There is also a chef at the bar that can whip up a selection of delicious pizzas such as duck and hoisin sauce or goat cheese and caramelised onions.
Activities and Conservation
You may be on an isolated island, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t anything to do but eat and drink. In the early morning, an instructor can guide you through a private yoga session and after the sun goes down, the staff can turn your villa into a fully fledged cinema for the ultimate in villa movie experience.
The island resort also brings romance and intimacy with Cambodia to a whole other level, giving guests the opportunity to participate in traditional ceremonies carried out by Buddhist monks, while an experienced guide can take you to the nearby mangroves for an exclusive kayaking tour through some of the country’s completely untouched landscapes.
The resort has also organised an arrangement with the Cambodian government giving the islands a conservation perimeter of 200 metres in any direction, protecting its valuable and rich marine life, making snorkelling around the local reefs especially excellent. You can also go bird watching at several platforms on Koh Bong.
The green ambition doesn’t stop with the island’s immediate surrounds. Song Saa’s on-site conservation scientists are currently creating a regional-first carbon offset scheme for visitors. The offset scheme will protect a valuable mangrove community and bastion bird habitat along the coast near Koh Kong province.
Mangroves capture and store more carbon per square metre than land trees in a more effective and long-lasting way. For what will end up being an economical few dollars voluntary contribution, visitors can offset the emissions for their entire stay to, from and on the island while preserving a critical coastal ecosystem.
“Conservation is actually woven into the DNA of the whole project,” said Mr McCallum, adding that Song Saa has five people who work solely on conservation issues there.
“I think what we create is a template that outlines how sustainable development can be in coastal Cambodia.”
For more information, Tel: +855 236-860-360; www.songsaa.com

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