A royal, opulent experience

By Meera Bhardwaj - 
New Indian Express BANGALORE 
25th April 2013 

Photos From top: Phnom Penh, Royal Palace as seen from across Tonle Sap River. The king of Cambodia participating in a ceremony. Mural paintings in the royal palace | EPS From top: Phnom Penh, Royal Palace as seen from across Tonle Sap River. The king of Cambodia participating in a ceremony. Mural paintings in the royal palace | EPS 

Do you know that it was because of the opulent culture of the Khmers that the capital of Royal Kingdom of Cambodia was shifted from Angkor to Phnom Penh in the 15th century. However, it was abandoned for nearly three centuries and it was only in 1866 that it once again became the Khmer capital. Known as the 'Pearl of Asia', this capital today is not only an eclectic mix of high rise buildings, chic pubs, bistros and boutique hotels on the river front but also the Cambodian royalty's opulent abode. It is ironic that once again an edifice of the most ostentatious order was created on the lines of the Khmer artistry of Angkor.

Since then the royal family of Sihanouks have always lived at the Royal Palace except for a brief period during the turmoil of the Khmer Rouge regime. Situated atop an ancient citadel on the crossing of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, the Palace was built in the mid-19th century.

Earlier, there was only the silver citadel but over a period of time, many buildings and temples have been added by the royal family. But amazingly, even these were demolished over a period of time. However, the Royal Court and a new Throne Room which was built later is based on Khmer, Thai and European classical architecture. The Throne Hall adapting Khmer artistic style and inspired by Angkorian design is pretty extravagant and exuberant incorporating significant European style too. It was a late sunny morning when we set out to see the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda with King Norodom Sihamoni in residence. I got an opportunity to see the King, a very unobtrusive and quiet personality unlike his father, the late King Norodom Sihanouk utterly revered by Cambodians till his death in Beijing last October. The present King, unmarried without a heir, seems to be reluctant to meddle in domestic affairs or regional politics.

A classical ballet dancer by profession, he can be seen often at open religious festivals and Buddhist rituals held in other countries. I got an opportunity to witness a ceremony at the Silver Pagoda itself where the King was involved in a colourful religious festival blessing the souls of ancestors, relatives and friends alike who have passed away. It looked very similar to the Hindu ritual of performing 'Shradh' to one's departed relatives. It is not possible to see this place in a single day as it abounds in sculptures, paintings, artifacts and various other relics belonging to a vast time period. A huge palatial complex amidst verdant surroundings, the Royal Palace is divided into four main sections : the Silver Pagoda, the Khemarin Palace, the Throne Hall and the Inner Court. When I visited this huge complex, I was mesmerised by the golden towering spires, the chiseled stupas, the scintillating temple of the Emerald Buddha and of course, the unusual mural paintings depicting the Hindu epic, Ramayana.

Silver Pagoda, named as such because of inlay work of 5239 silver tiles encompassing the entire complex is commonly referred to as Wat Preah Keo in Khmer language. The silver flooring can hardly be seen as they are covered with rugs and a section of it is barred for the public.

In comparison, the Throne Hall comprising three thrones is a place that is used for royal and religious ceremonies nowadays. One is reminded of the Indo-Sarasenic styled Mysore Palace with its opulent throne hall as even this is richly embellished and decorated hall but with a difference as it houses the golden busts of earlier Kings and Queens.

The King's living area which actually takes up half of the total palace ground area, including Khemarin Palace, Villa Kantha Bopha, royal gardens, and a number of other buildings and pavilions, is generally closed to the public. In fact, most of the grounds are out of bounds for the visitors while the charges for visiting the palace complex is very expensive.