On Cambodia's Tonlé Sap Lake sits the village of
Chong Khneas, but the exact position of the village changes depending on
the time of year. As rains cause the lake to swell, the entire village
moves to the edges of the lake, close to a nearby mountain. As the
waters recede during the dry season, the village moves toward the middle
of the lake. In the times in between, the village sits along the lake's
flooded forest, where trees and bushes rise from the waters.
Photos by Cathy Davis.
Fed
by the Mekong River, Tonlé Sap Lake is the largest freshwater lake in
South East Asia. As you drive closer to the lake, you'll see an
increasing number of houses on stilts, so that the rising waters will
leave the homes themselves undisturbed. In Chong Khneas, however, the
houses actually float. The Vietnamese and Khmer households of Chong
Khneas exist on small riverboats, moving the entire village when the
water level gets too high or two low, and returning to the same places
year after year.
The vast majority of the villagers subsist on
fishing and fish farming, although the boats also host a floating pig
farm, two schools, a community market, a general store, a Catholic
church, a Buddhist temple, and a basketball court (with netting around
the sides to keep the ball from flying). The residents travel between
floating buildings by long rowboats (as we entered the village, we were
greeted by by the sight of two groups of children in rowboats splashing
their oars at each other), and a handful of villagers make their living
selling fruits and vegetables to their neighbors, rowing their wares
around the village. A solar-powered cellphone tower provides phone
service to what would be an otherwise unconnected population.
In
recent years, Chong Khneas has become a tourist destination, meaning
boats filled with tourists snapping pictures have become part of their
daily lives. (These photos, for example, were all taken by my mother
during boat tours.) The villagers apparently don't mind these
intrusions, but there are aspects of these tours that are disconcerting.
The hefty fee for tours (which can be around $20 per person) goes to a
private company rather than to the impoverished villagers or toward
ecological preservation—not to mention the fact that you're dumping
extra fuel into village waters. Plus, there are some hard sells along
the way; some tourists are asked to purchase goods from the local market
for the orphanage and school across the way, and some sources indicate
that at least a portion of the goods are promptly returned to the market
and resold. And certainly the giant restaurant barge at the edge of the
village, housing a catfish and crocodile farm, is an obvious tourist
trap—though the tiny crocodile farm is pretty cool. Despite these
issues, tours of Chong Khneas offer a fascinating look at a group of
people living an unusual modern existence.
Tonlé Sap Lake also
hosts the less tourist-traveled Kampong Phluk and Kampong Khleang,
lakeside villages with houses on stilts, as well as the Prek Toal Bird
Sanctuary. There are also organizations like UNESCO's Preservation of Cardamom Region and Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve, looking to preserve the ecology of the region, and The Lake Clinic, which provides medical care to residents of Tonlé Sap Lake. The conservation-focused NGO OSMOSE offers ecotours of the lake, including a lake village and the bird sanctuary.
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