To market in a Khmer landmark: Photo: Amanda Keenan, The West Australian ©
AMANDA KEENAN,
The West Australian
August 20, 2011
If you're the kind of person who has trouble saying no, there is a place you should never, ever go.
It's called Phsar Thmey, which translates literally to New Market, and it's where all the action happens in Cambodia's exhilarating capital Phnom Penh.
More Cambodia travel news and reviews:
KINGDOM OF WONDERS
AGONY AND ECSTASY
STAR HOTELS
AMANDA KEENAN,
The West Australian
August 20, 2011
If you're the kind of person who has trouble saying no, there is a place you should never, ever go.
It's called Phsar Thmey, which translates literally to New Market, and it's where all the action happens in Cambodia's exhilarating capital Phnom Penh.
More Cambodia travel news and reviews:
KINGDOM OF WONDERS
AGONY AND ECSTASY
STAR HOTELS
The magnificent central market rises from the centre of the bustling Khmer city like a great big shopping sunshine. The yellow domed building alone is a stunning landmark that will leave lovers of architecture - especially Art Deco - aghast.
Built during the period of French colonisation in 1937 on what was once swampland, the enormous, ornate dome with four outstretched arms was then the largest market in Asia.
The four arms are said to represent the Chattomukh - the point in Phnom Penh where four rivers, including the muddy Mekong, intersect. The dome represents the economic heart of the city and its high ceilings are a triumph of clever construction over Cambodia's constant oppressive heat.
The architect designed what would these days be considered a benchmark in environmentally friendly construction - even on the muggiest of days this heaving, un-air-conditioned market is incredibly cool.
The years, however, were not so kind to this remarkable building, and its golden lustre and famous facade were in dire need of repair - the yellow paint had faded and the concrete darkened.
RENOVATION
Last year, a multi-million-dollar renovation funded by the Agence Francaise de Developpement saw the Phsar Thmey returned to its former glory.
The agency was just as concerned with the historical and cultural merit of the central market at it was with the vital role it plays in the city: there are more than 3000 merchants in the market which serves as an important social hub, a vital economic stimulus and a valuable tourist attraction.
On the morning we visited Phsar Thmey, our guide encouraged us to take note of our surroundings before venturing inside since the entrances on each of the four wings are identical.
He also issued an emotive warning about the stench of the wet market: "the smell will make you vomit", he said matter-of-factly.
This sprawling market is a hive of activity which offers a selection of goods rivalling the shopping mall of your dreams.
And there's something particularly charming about the politely insistent stallholders that makes it especially tough to turn them down. This isn't a tourist market (although of course Westerners with plenty of crisp US dollars are very welcome) and as such the sellers are more used to dealing with locals.
NO HASSLE
They won't push or hassle you; in fact the most aggressive, demanding sales pitch I experienced during a weekday morning traipsing through these intoxicating markets was "You buy something lady?" Really - how can you refuse?
It's similarly difficult to refuse the many disabled young men, often as a result of landmines, selling books and DVDs outside. Lining the market's four wings are outdoor stalls which are now under cover as a result of the three-year renovation.
Here you will find all kinds of touristy nick-nacks, including the obligatory Angkor "My country, my beer" T-shirts (I paid just $US1 for a good quality blue one without even attempting to bargain).
Like Phnom Penh itself, the central market can be overwhelming because of its sheer size. I found it deliciously exciting to roam around the labyrinthine corridors aimlessly, never knowing what I'd find around the next bend.
The stalls are conveniently and cleverly set out in enclaves: I seemed to wander first into the ladies' clothing section, which seamlessly became the kitchenware section, then flowers and then food - it made perfect sense in a random way.
WHAT'S FOR SALE?
There is a huge electronics section with every possible gadget, a sublime area devoted to colourful Cambodian silks and for this sunglasses collector, an eye-popping array of (presumably counterfeit) Ray-Bans.
Alongside the sunglasses beneath the dome were countless glass cabinets of silver jewellery. I was on the hunt for a silver ring with a rectangular red stone and after spotting what I wanted, prepared to do a deal.
But before I could even ask for a price, the sassy stallholder had positioned a fan on the counter to cool me down and a stool miraculously appeared at my weary feet; talk about service! (For the record I bought two rings for her asking price of $70 for the pair - maybe I could have paid much less, but she earned it).
What struck me about the retail part of the central market was the relative quiet inside: there was no shouting, haggling or aggro - just a hum of friendly conversation.
Families manned their stalls while their children played happily underfoot and there appeared to be nothing in the way of cutthroat competition - all of this contributes to a wonderful sense of community.
WET MARKET
Set foot inside the wet market, however, and it's a different world. I steeled my stomach and hoisted up my long cargo pants as I waded in - the floor was awash with all manner of detritus but the smell, despite the guide's ominous warning, was not that bad.
This place is nirvana for anyone who loves food, culture and people-watching and it's also the only place in the entire market where nobody asked me to buy anything. There are stalls selling all kinds of tropical fruit - dragon fruit, jack fruit, pineapples, lychees, bananas and papayas.
While the market is bigger than most shopping malls, its food hall is unlike anything I've seen; likewise the enticing array of cured fish and meats. My favourite was the meat and seafood section.
While it can be a bit confronting, this is a food market at its most basic and most wonderful: at one of the meat stalls, an elderly Cambodian woman sits atop the counter among hunks of pork with a cleaver at her feet; nearby a husband and wife crouch over rudimentary chopping blocks while they hack away at all kinds of fish.
It's hard, dirty work yet they seem delighted by it; proud of it. I spent ages roaming around and every time I asked to take a photo I was given a nod and a huge smile.
I overheard the odd snooty Westerner baulking at the flies on unrefrigerated meat or the gamey smells, or the grubby floor but I found it so much more fun to open my eyes and yes, my nose, and embrace this as a living, breathing, buzzing microcosm of an amazing city.
FACT FILE
Air Asia flies from Perth to Kuala Lumpur daily (fares starting from $194) and then from Kuala Lumpur to Phnom Penh twice daily and from Kuala Lumpur to Siem Reap once daily (around $45). Go to airasia.com.
Amanda Keenan travelled as a guest of Air Asia.
Built during the period of French colonisation in 1937 on what was once swampland, the enormous, ornate dome with four outstretched arms was then the largest market in Asia.
The four arms are said to represent the Chattomukh - the point in Phnom Penh where four rivers, including the muddy Mekong, intersect. The dome represents the economic heart of the city and its high ceilings are a triumph of clever construction over Cambodia's constant oppressive heat.
The architect designed what would these days be considered a benchmark in environmentally friendly construction - even on the muggiest of days this heaving, un-air-conditioned market is incredibly cool.
The years, however, were not so kind to this remarkable building, and its golden lustre and famous facade were in dire need of repair - the yellow paint had faded and the concrete darkened.
RENOVATION
Last year, a multi-million-dollar renovation funded by the Agence Francaise de Developpement saw the Phsar Thmey returned to its former glory.
The agency was just as concerned with the historical and cultural merit of the central market at it was with the vital role it plays in the city: there are more than 3000 merchants in the market which serves as an important social hub, a vital economic stimulus and a valuable tourist attraction.
On the morning we visited Phsar Thmey, our guide encouraged us to take note of our surroundings before venturing inside since the entrances on each of the four wings are identical.
He also issued an emotive warning about the stench of the wet market: "the smell will make you vomit", he said matter-of-factly.
This sprawling market is a hive of activity which offers a selection of goods rivalling the shopping mall of your dreams.
And there's something particularly charming about the politely insistent stallholders that makes it especially tough to turn them down. This isn't a tourist market (although of course Westerners with plenty of crisp US dollars are very welcome) and as such the sellers are more used to dealing with locals.
NO HASSLE
They won't push or hassle you; in fact the most aggressive, demanding sales pitch I experienced during a weekday morning traipsing through these intoxicating markets was "You buy something lady?" Really - how can you refuse?
It's similarly difficult to refuse the many disabled young men, often as a result of landmines, selling books and DVDs outside. Lining the market's four wings are outdoor stalls which are now under cover as a result of the three-year renovation.
Here you will find all kinds of touristy nick-nacks, including the obligatory Angkor "My country, my beer" T-shirts (I paid just $US1 for a good quality blue one without even attempting to bargain).
Like Phnom Penh itself, the central market can be overwhelming because of its sheer size. I found it deliciously exciting to roam around the labyrinthine corridors aimlessly, never knowing what I'd find around the next bend.
The stalls are conveniently and cleverly set out in enclaves: I seemed to wander first into the ladies' clothing section, which seamlessly became the kitchenware section, then flowers and then food - it made perfect sense in a random way.
WHAT'S FOR SALE?
There is a huge electronics section with every possible gadget, a sublime area devoted to colourful Cambodian silks and for this sunglasses collector, an eye-popping array of (presumably counterfeit) Ray-Bans.
Alongside the sunglasses beneath the dome were countless glass cabinets of silver jewellery. I was on the hunt for a silver ring with a rectangular red stone and after spotting what I wanted, prepared to do a deal.
But before I could even ask for a price, the sassy stallholder had positioned a fan on the counter to cool me down and a stool miraculously appeared at my weary feet; talk about service! (For the record I bought two rings for her asking price of $70 for the pair - maybe I could have paid much less, but she earned it).
What struck me about the retail part of the central market was the relative quiet inside: there was no shouting, haggling or aggro - just a hum of friendly conversation.
Families manned their stalls while their children played happily underfoot and there appeared to be nothing in the way of cutthroat competition - all of this contributes to a wonderful sense of community.
WET MARKET
Set foot inside the wet market, however, and it's a different world. I steeled my stomach and hoisted up my long cargo pants as I waded in - the floor was awash with all manner of detritus but the smell, despite the guide's ominous warning, was not that bad.
This place is nirvana for anyone who loves food, culture and people-watching and it's also the only place in the entire market where nobody asked me to buy anything. There are stalls selling all kinds of tropical fruit - dragon fruit, jack fruit, pineapples, lychees, bananas and papayas.
While the market is bigger than most shopping malls, its food hall is unlike anything I've seen; likewise the enticing array of cured fish and meats. My favourite was the meat and seafood section.
While it can be a bit confronting, this is a food market at its most basic and most wonderful: at one of the meat stalls, an elderly Cambodian woman sits atop the counter among hunks of pork with a cleaver at her feet; nearby a husband and wife crouch over rudimentary chopping blocks while they hack away at all kinds of fish.
It's hard, dirty work yet they seem delighted by it; proud of it. I spent ages roaming around and every time I asked to take a photo I was given a nod and a huge smile.
I overheard the odd snooty Westerner baulking at the flies on unrefrigerated meat or the gamey smells, or the grubby floor but I found it so much more fun to open my eyes and yes, my nose, and embrace this as a living, breathing, buzzing microcosm of an amazing city.
FACT FILE
Air Asia flies from Perth to Kuala Lumpur daily (fares starting from $194) and then from Kuala Lumpur to Phnom Penh twice daily and from Kuala Lumpur to Siem Reap once daily (around $45). Go to airasia.com.
Amanda Keenan travelled as a guest of Air Asia.
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