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Sunday, 15 August 2010

Ask the Expert: Crossing Cambodia

Aug 15, 2010
By Peter Malherbe
Times Live, South Africa

Our travel expert answers queries on routes and destinations around the world



Q I need to travel from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap in Cambodia to visit Angkor Wat. I have checked flights, but they are pretty expensive. Could you suggest alternatives? - Michael Steyn

A The most popular way to travel between the two centres is by bus. As the road is paved and safe, it only takes about five or six hours. Phnom Penh does not have a central bus station. The buses depart from different locations, depending on what company is offering the service. You can get the details of your departure point when you buy your ticket. Several bus companies, guesthouses and travel agencies offer air-conditioned bus transport. It is usually easier to buy a ticket through a travel agency or a guesthouse, as the prices will not differ much. The price depends on the service, from a basic air-conditioned bus to a deluxe one with entertainment, snacks and on-board toilet.

Most buses make at least two stops along the way - at Skun and Kampong Thom for a snack or lunch. The price of bus tickets ranges from as little as $4 to around $10 for a luxury bus.

Many travellers recommend the Mekong Express bus service.

You can also use a local shared taxi, which will cost you around $8 per person. You can rent the entire taxi for around $45, which will allow you the flexibility to stop along the route and shop for the very reasonably priced goods sold along the road. If you can convince fellow travellers to join you, you can get the price down. The taxis depart from the southwest corner of the Central Market in Phnom Penh.

You can also go by ferry on the Tonlé Sap river and lake. Although it can be very uncomfortable and costs around $35 per ticket, some tourists find the idea appealing.

Q Can you recommend hotels or resorts in the Natal Drakensberg that have golf courses? - Wendy Smit

A In the foothills of the southern Drakensberg, the Drakensberg Gardens Golf and Leisure Resort Hotel has an 18-hole championship-status course. This family-friendly resort also offers trout fishing, tennis and hiking (www.goodersonleisure.co.za).

The Sani Pass Hotel and Leisure Resort offers a nine-hole course with 18 tees for the free use of hotel guests. The course is laid out along the meandering Mkhomazana River, with many scenic river crossings on swing bridges (www.sanipasshotel.co.za).

In the central Drakensberg area, the Champagne Sports Resort has an 18-hole course designed by Hugh Baiocchi. Highly-rated, it is set against the backdrop of the Cathkin and Champagne peaks and serves a number of nearby resorts, including the Drakensberg Sun (www.champagnesportsresort.com).

The Amphitheatre Golf Club in Bergville has a nine-hole course. Situated adjacent to the Hlalanathi Drakensberg Resort, it is to be extended into an 18-hole course across the Tugela River (www.hlalanathi.co.za).

To the north, the Cathedral Peak Hotel has a nine-hole course, which offers alternate tees for an 18-hole game. There is a great clubhouse surrounded by spectacular mountain views - a great 19th hole hangout. The resort is located 250km from Durban and 400km from Johannesburg (www.cathedralpeak.co.za).

Q I believe I read somewhere that the Louvre Abu Dhabi was opening this year. Are there packages available to visit the country with a view to seeing the exhibitions? - Rene Lennox

A The year 2010 is the starting date for construction work on this unique facility. It was only agreed in 2007 and a committee formed by the French and Abu Dhabi governments has until the end of the year to present a research and cultural remit of the project. The provisional opening date is 2013. I am sure the opening will be accompanied by much fanfare and publicity, so you will be well aware when it takes place.

Q I am considering visiting Greece in November and would like to know if it is still possible to enjoy the islands in winter. I don't mind the cooler weather, but don't want to end up in deserted resorts with little to do? Which, if any, islands do you recommend? - Vic Robinson

A It is certainly possible to have a great time in Greece during winter, as long as you don't expect sun every day or to spend your time tanning. There is so much else you can do, with many historic sites and fascinating attractions.

Many of the islands will be quiet and some of the larger tourist facilities closed, but this gives you a chance to mingle with the people who live there, and eat and drink with them and not in a tourist trap.

Islands such as Santorini, Mykonos, Paros, Crete and Rhodes get visitors all year round, but it is probably best to visit the islands close to Athens. These include Kea, Hydra, Spetses, Poros and Aegina, all of which have daily ferries and a busy resident population.

Hydra, with its spectacular harbour, is a favourite of mine. It can get cool and rainy in winter, but the prices are a fraction of what they are in the peak July/August season and there is still plenty to do. You can visit villages, tiny fishing ports, museums and churches to soak up authentic island life.

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