Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Cambodian Farmer Soup at Seven Star Restaurant in Johnston is a peasant dish fit for a king or queen.
The Providence Journal / Sandor Bod
Over the past few months, a variety of restaurants have opened their doors offering a multiplicity of foods, prices and atmosphere.
But it’s hard to find a better story than that of the lovely Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingstown on the inlet to Potter Pond.
Owner Perry Raso is a local oyster farmer. He grows his Matunuck Oysters right there in Potter Pond where the water flows through fast and feeds the oysters. He’s been doing this for six years after studying aquaculture and fisheries technology at URI.
“The whole theme of the restaurant is fresh seafood,” he said.
Raso purchased the property, which has been home to a variety of restaurants, most recently the Lido Deck, in March. Its proximity to his oyster farm was key to his interest. He opened this summer without any restaurant background but with a desire to create an environmentally friendly theme with his new place. He offers tours of the farm to show visitors the source of their food and then they can dine at the restaurant.
Chefs Wayne Bush and Thomas Curtis hired on kitchen staff and prepared a menu chock full of local ingredients. Raso buys from Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s Market Mobile program, which offers local food products to restaurants. He also buys directly from other farmers, including free-range beef from Carpenter’s Farm in Matunuck, produce from Wishing Stone Farm in Little Compton, and greens from Arcadian Fields in Hopkinton. Raso sells other farmers’ oysters as well as his own. He is part of a cooperative of six local oyster farms.
The restaurant will stay open on weekends at least through December, but Raso needs to close then for some renovations to the kitchen. He said one lesson learned this summer was that they have to be able to put out an increased volume of food faster. He’s looking forward to a spring reopening.
AS FOR SOME of the other new spots, you’ll recognize some of the names of those involved in new endeavors.
Bistro 9 is new at the East Greenwich Golf Club on Division Street. The executive chef is Aaron Edwards, who co-owned Trattoria del Corso in East Greenwich and ran it for four years. When his rent went up, he closed the doors.
Now, he’s making a new name for himself in a just-about-completed space that has undergone a massive renovation inside and out. Most dramatically, the restaurant’s owners added a boulder deck with three levels facing the public golf course.
“It’s probably one of the most beautiful views in East Greenwich,” he said.
But it’s his menu of contemporary Italian food, twists on American cuisine, small plates at the bar and bistro concept that have brought in fans just by word of mouth. He’s open daily serving lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Lunch only is served on Monday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Small plates are all priced $5 or under and on the dinner menu everything is under $18. A five-course dinner and wine pairing at the chef’s table costs $50.
LEANE KAUN opened Lily Garden on a busy stretch of Route 44 in Greenville that seemed to devour many a restaurant. Pulling out into traffic from the parking lot was like easing onto a race track in the middle of a race. Lily Garden didn’t make it.
But the food, with a menu of Thai, Cambodian, Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, was bright and aromatic and wonderful. A native of Cambodia, Kaun had gained a lot of experience cooking in other Rhode Island restaurants.
He is back with Seven Star Restaurant at 100 George Waterman Rd., Johnston. Don’t miss his Cambodian Farmer soup, a peasant dish that is fit for a king or queen. It’s as if the spice shelf fell into the broth but in perfect proportion.
He’s open seven days a week serving his Southeastern Asian cuisine.
There’s another familiar face at City Side at River Falls, 74 South Main St., Woonsocket. Paul Troxell was a fixture at Olives in Providence and now he is working with Gary Fernandes and Dave Gouin, the owners of River Falls, at City Side, a new restaurant and entertainment venue. The menu features a range of appetizers as well as salads, sandwiches, burgers and steak tips. City Side is open Thursday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday from noon to 1 a.m.
They are offering specials like the “Buffalo and Pony Show” on Thursday and Sunday nights. That’s an order of chicken wings with 20 flavors to choose from and a bucket of 6 ponies (7 1/2-ounce beers) for $10 or $12, depending on the choice of beer.
BOBBY FLAY just opened Bar Americain, his second restaurant at Mohegan Sun in nearby Connecticut. His Burger Bar opened during the summer. The 275-seat restaurant is his second Bar Americain (the first is in New York City).
Flay said the best way to describe the restaurant is that it is “an American brasserie” with food plated like it would be in France, but with all-American ingredients on that plate. Appetizers include Spicy Tuna Tartar. There is a selection of spice-rubbed steaks. Fulton Fish Market Cioppino is served with Sour Dough Toast. Mussels & Fries Americain is his version of the brasserie classic moules frites. Buttermilk Fried Chicken is all-American, as are Country Style Ribs with Bourbon Barbecue Sauce.
This upscale restaurant also has a lounge that offers a more casual setting. But regardless of where you sit, don’t miss the classic shellfish cocktails.
“It’s a great way to start,” said Flay.
NESTOR XHUPI is one of the owners of The Big Cheese Pizza & Pub, a favorite spot in Cranston. Now he has opened Wine and Cheese, 1861 Smith St., North Providence, with partner Leo Mezini.
“We have some similar menu items to The Big Cheese,” he said. That includes 30 varieties of calzones and lots of Italian entrées. They have expanded the menu as well. Don’t worry. His outstanding vinaigrette dressing is the same recipe.
The restaurant is also running “Daily Deals” through the end of the year. They are: Tuesday, free Greek salad with a large gourmet pizza; Wednesday, buy one calzone, get one free; Thursday, free mozzarella bread, garlic bread or crazy sticks with a large pizza; Friday, discount day, with 20 percent off all orders; Saturday, free drink with entrée; Sunday, kids eat free. The restaurant is closed on Monday.
MIKE SEARS is at it again. He’s the low-key owner behind Lili Marlene’s on Federal Hill and was the first owner of Loie Fuller on Westminster Street. (He sold to chef Eric Wolf.) Now he has quietly opened Ama’s at 3 Luongo Square in Providence. There is a raw bar and small menu at this cute spot near the Avery bar.
gciampa@projo.com
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