A Change of Guard

សូមស្តាប់វិទ្យុសង្គ្រោះជាតិ Please read more Khmer news and listen to CNRP Radio at National Rescue Party. សូមស្តាប់វីទ្យុខ្មែរប៉ុស្តិ៍/Khmer Post Radio.
Follow Khmerization on Facebook/តាមដានខ្មែរូបនីយកម្មតាម Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/khmerization.khmerican

Friday 10 April 2009

The legacy of Chum Aphaiwong: The Last Lord Governor of Battambang

Chaophraya Abhaibhubejhr (Chhum or Choom Abhaiwongse, (1861 to 1922) was the last Lord-Governor of Battambang province from 1895-1907).

A legacy of HERITAGE

Thanks to one man's love of his hometown, Thailand and Cambodia possess a paired architectural heritage that has lasted for a century

9th April, 2009

By PLOENPOTE ATTHAKOR
Bangkok Post


The heritage sites - two stately mansions and two temples in Thailand's Prachin Buri and Cambodia's Battambang - remain as the legacy of Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr (Choom Abhaiwongse, 1861 to 1922), the last lord governor of Battambang before Siam gave up the province, together with Siem Reap and Sisophon, to French-ruled Cambodia in 1907.

Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr (Chhum Aphaiwong/Choom Abhaiwongse), the last lord governor of Battambang under the rule of Siam.

Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr was born in Battambang, but received education in Bangkok. He took over the position of lord governor of Battambang from his father who died in 1892. He was the fourth and last governor of Battambang from the Abhaiwongse family.

In 1905, Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr began building the baroque mansion in Battambang with the intent to make it his residence. However, the mansion was incomplete at the time he abandoned Battambang as France took over the province after the Siamese-French territory pact relinquished it for Trat and some islands on Siam's eastern coast.

The Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr building, now a museum of traditional Thai medicine. This year marks the building’s centenary.

Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr, who enjoyed hunting and a rural lifestyle, spent a short time in Bangkok before eventually asking for royal permission to settle down in Prachin Buri where he could pursue an adventurous life.

In 1909, he decided to build another mansion in a similar architectural style in Prachin Buri. His motivation came after he received King Chulalongkorn during a royal visit in the hope that he would have a proper place to serve the monarch if he travelled to the province again. The monarch never did as he passed away the following year.

The old mansion in Battambang, which once served as the provincial hall.

"Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr had the mansion face east, towards Battambang, instead of the Prachin River, in accordance with traditional construction practises," noted Supaporn Pitiporn, managing director of the Abhaibhubejhr Foundation. It significantly indicates the bond Chao phraya Abhaibhubejhr felt with his former home, and he is said to have re-hired the same group of craftsmen who completed the mansion in Battambang to construct the new building in Prachin Buri.

Moreover, the way he built the main hall of Wat Kaewpichit in Prachin Buri's Muang district after that of Wat Domrey Sor, a monumental temple with spectacular architectural work in Battambang, further accentuates the affinity he had with his hometown.

its interior.

"He didn't return to Battambang until his death, however," she said, adding it must have been difficult for the nobleman to leave his birthplace and ashes of his parents and wife for a new land.

Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr presented the mansion to King Vajiravudh as a wedding gift when he married his granddaughter Khun Kruakaew (promoted to Phra Nang Chao Suvadhana). She later donated the building to the Royal Thai Army to be used as a hospital for soldiers and members of the public. The building is now a museum of traditional Thai medicine.

The balcony of the old mansion.

The nobleman never made use of the mansion. Only after his death did his body enter the building, placed inside for a funeral ceremony before being cremated at Wat Kaewpichit.

While the Abhaibhubejhr mansion underwent a major facelift to its former grandeur in 1994, it's twin building in Battambang is still in a sorry state. It had served as the Battambang provincial hall for many years until it was worn out and abandoned. The province now has a new building on the same compound and the mansion is now a meeting place for a local association.

The Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr building

Neang Chanthara, assistant to the Battambang governor, said the Thai and Cambodian governments discussed a restoration plan some four years ago. Experts from the Thai Fine Arts Department estimated the restoration plan for the mansion to have an approximate cost of 17 million baht.

A budget problem on the Thai side has delayed restoration, he said, expressing no confidence that the plan will be realised.

Neang Chantara hopes the mansion, when fully restored, will become a city museum.

He pointed out that leaks in the mansion's roof are an urgent problem.

"The roofs need to be fixed immediately as seeping rainwater has extensively damaged the building's interior for years," he said.

Wat Domrey Sor

The roof restoration cost has been approximated at two million baht and is likely to be shared between the Battambang province and the Thai embassy in Phnom Penh, he said.

Moreover, he pointed out the Battambang province wishes to break down the restoration plan and budget into phases, as advised by the embassy, in order to make it more possible for Thailand to support the plan.

the twin temple of Wat Kaewpichit in Prachin Buri

The mansion, once fully restored, should serve as a museum, he said.

Supaporn said she hopes the Thai government will be able to participate in the mansion's restoration.

The mansion is a symbolic link between the two countries, she said, adding it may encourage the exchange of travellers from both sides and thus foster better understanding and relations.

The marvellous mosaic tiles of the old mansion in Battambang

"We are immediate neighbours and we should live and help each other like brothers. We should share with each other in good and bad times. If the neighbour needs helps, we should do what we possibly can," she said.

While it was widely believed that Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr cut off all the links he had with Battambang, historical evidence suggests otherwise.

Among it is an inscription carrying the Abhaibhubejhr emblem at the base of the back of the main Buddha image in the old ubosoth (ordination hall) of Samrong Khanong temple outside of Battambang town. The inscription says the image was built in 1911, four years after Chao Phraya had left Battambang.

from the Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr building.

It is believed by many that Chao Phraya provided the money for the Buddha image's construction at the temple.

Some Cambodian historical textbooks portray Chao Phraya in a negative light because of his decision to abandon Cambodia, but Supaporn sees the nobleman in a different way.

"He was a brave man with kind heart," she said. Chao Phraya's deep faith in Buddhism is attested to the fact that he built over 20 temples in Battambang while in power. One of them is Wat Domrey Sor (White Elephant), a monumental temple in the heart of Battambang town.

The temple became the prototype of Wat Kaewpichit when Chao Phraya Abhaibhubejhr patronised the construction of the temple's ubosoth in 1918, which signifies another historical link between the two countries.

Over the weekend, Supaporn, health officials from Abhaibhubejhr Hospital and Thai merit makers travelled to Battambang to conduct a pha pa ceremony at Wat Domrey Sor. It was part of the Abhaibhubejhr Foundation's celebration of the Abhaibhubejhr mansion's centenary in Prachin Buri this year and also was in honour of the nobleman. Supaporn said the event went well despite current border tensions.

"Every nation has border issues. But we should go beyond the problem as it would be mutually beneficial," she said.

The way the EU fosters integration is an ideal example, she said.

"Thailand and Cambodia are part of the region and each should do its part for Asian union. We lie in the same area, called Suvarnnabhumi, after all."

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

The members of Aphaiwong family were descendants of Chaufa Ben, a native of Takeo province who first ruled Battambang in 1796. Cambodians consider them to be traitors because they serve the Thai kings and betrayed Cambodia and the Khmer people. In 1907, when Battamabag was returned to Cambodia, the French authority asked Chhum Aphaiwong, the last lord governor of Battambang, to stay in Cambodia to become Battambang governor but he refused and moved to live in Thailand because he loved the Thai kings more than Cambodia, more than Khmer kings and more than the Khmer people. So he was a traitor.