This week, our Cambodia embed, Tim Patterson, is giving us the inside scoop on the country, live from a guesthouse in Sihanoukville.
Getting around Cambodia on local transport is often equal parts shock, misery and exhilaration.
Shock because it's hard to believe 28 people, 6 ducklings and 34 chickens can cram into the bed of a pickup truck. Misery because on the road from Phnom Penh to Mondulkiri, you'll learn that it's actually possible for both butt cheeks to fall asleep at the same time. Exhilaration because the quirky ingenuity of Cambodian transport gives rise to some of the most memorable journeys you'll experience anywhere.
Sure, you could take the bus. But that wouldn't be any fun. (Even if your butt does fall asleep, circulation will return someday!) With that in mind, here's a run-down of the more interesting transport options in Cambodia.
Motos:
Motorcycle taxis are *the* way to get around town in Cambodia. Modo-dops, as they're called, hang out on just about every street corner in the country. A few tips:
· Negotiate the fare before hopping on the bike: 25 cents per kilometer is a pretty good rule of thumb.
· Watch out for the muffler: It's easy to burn your inner calf if you aren't careful.
· Know where you're going: Most moto-dops assume you know the way, so if you don't, make sure the driver does.
Pick-Ups, Share Taxis and Mini-Buses:
When Cambodians travel long distances, they generally squeeze into one of these shared vehicles. Don't expect a seat to yourself, but if you want to get close to the locals and have an authentic experience, share transport is the way to go.
Shared vehicles usually leave from markets and town squares between 7 and 10 in the morning. Feel free to bargain down the price, as drivers will try to charge more for foreigners. Oh, and while travel in the bed of a pick-up truck can be great fun, just be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen.
Bamboo Train:
Cambodia's railway is in a serious state of disrepair. A real train sometimes creaks along the tracks from Phnom Penh to Battambang, but it's frequently broken down.
The locals still use the tracks, however, scooting around on homemade norries, or bamboo trains. You can take a ride on the bamboo train from Battambang, or by exploring the railway line between Pursat and Battambang until you find one.
Fishing Boats:
Cambodia's saltwater fishermen are in a tough spot. Large fleets from Thailand and Vietnam sweep the offshore fishing grounds, leaving minnows for the locals. Support the fishermen by chartering a boat to one of Cambodia's islands. Fuel is expensive, so boat rentals aren't cheap, but getting to the islands is worth the effort. (Check back later this week for my guide to Cambodia's most beautiful undiscovered islands.)
Pony Carts:
In some villages along the Mekong, locals get around in pony carts. The ponies wear golden bells and red pom-poms and are freaking adorable.
Tuk-Tuks:
Tuk-Tuks are open carriages drawn by moto-bikes. They're kind of touristy, but locals use them sometimes, and I have to admit, there's no better way to travel.
Tuk-Tuks can fit four to six people on padded seats. The roof offers shade, and the cooling breeze is better than AC. Best of all, you can chat with your companions just as if you were sitting across from each other at a dinner table.
Safety First!
Yesterday two people died after a moto wreck in downtown Sihanoukville, just a few blocks from my guesthouse.
It's impossible to eliminate all the risks of rugged travel in Cambodia, but you can minimize the danger by traveling during the daytime, inspecting vehicles carefully and making sure the driver isn't drunk before you hop on board.
Hold on tight, and have fun!
· Cambodia Travel coverage [Jaunted]
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