A Change of Guard

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Thursday 16 May 2013

Cambodian refugee finds American dream in a donut shop

May 15, 2013
Wednesday, — When Glaze King Donuts opened on April 26, Samreth Kem knew he'd made it in America.

In 1981 he sneaked out of war-torn Cambodia, where dictator Pol Pot was sowing killing fields with the blood of his own people. Kem crossed the border in Thailand and entered a refugee camp. Later that year, with the help of American sponsors, he came to the United States, first living in Houston before making his way to New York.

In 1986, Kem moved to Greensboro and eventually bought a home for his family. But it wasn't until 2010 that he started working for Chhoun Rith, the Cambodian-American owner of the Donut World chain with several shops in Greensboro and High Point.

"He taught me to make donuts," said Kem. "He told me how to make a business."

After about three years at Donut World, Kem was encouraged by Rith to open his own store. He found a vacancy at 1056 Albemarle Road, where a number of food establishments have come and gone over the years.

Kem had set up the store with the help of his family and Craig Colao, a local handyman who just happens to be the father of Ronnie Kem's fianceé. Ronnie is Samreth Kem's son who now works at Glaze King.

Colao oversaw redoing the interior of the business, painting and hooking up equipment. In the meantime, he learned to like the wide range of donut products Kem cooks up.

"I didn't think I'd like a bacon donut," said Colao, "but with the maple flavor it tastes like pancakes with bacon. It's good."

Kem had placed a sign in the window to let people know that Glaze King Donuts would open on Friday, April 26. The family didn't know what to expect when the day arrived.

"The first day was very busy," said Kem, noting that cars were parked outside when the doors opened at 5 a.m. Normally, he would made donuts twice a day, but the grand opening required five mixing sessions.

As a bonus, Rith came to visit the new store and "said everything looked good," according to Kem.

When you walk in the door you face the donut display cases. Customers are wide-eyed when they see not just a wide array of donuts and pastries to choose from, but most are larger than what they're accustomed to.

Glazed and raised donuts have proven to be the most popular, said Ronnie Kem, but others have sold well also. Besides glazed, they offer cake donuts, french crullers, various cream- and jelly-filled, bear claws, cinnamon rolls, old-fashioned, apple fritters and chocolate-chip bars, to name a few. You can mix and match with a host of flavorings to choose from.

The shop also offers fresh hot coffee and a variety of cold drinks. There are a few tables and chairs for those who prefer to munch donuts inside.

Ronnie Kem pointed out that Glaze King is equipped with free Internet and Wifi for those who want to sit on the sofa with their laptops while eating donuts and drinking coffee.

Samreth Kem, who goes by Sam, said everything is made fresh in the Glaze King kitchen. From mixing the batter, cutting the forms, frying, glazing and filling, Kem is intent on providing the best products possible.

"My father fries and I do everything else," said Ronnie. His mother works the counter but also makes the donut fillings.

Ronnie, a student at GTCC in aviation electronics and auto mechanics, has put his career plans on hold to help his parents get started. "Since we opened, I kind of like it," he said. "I might stay."

He hinted that someday his father may open a second Glaze King and he would stay to manage the first store. But that's in the future.

"My father is teaching me everything," Ronnie said. "If he opens another one, I'll run this one."

A donut shop makes for a long day, according to Kem. He said he starts cooking at 8 p.m. to have the shelves stocked by the 5 a.m. the next morning. He may catch a few winks when things are caught up.

"What sets our donuts apart is they're very light," said Ronnie. "It melts in your mouth and is easy to chew. The menu is cheap compared to other places. You get more bang for your buck."

Ronnie said his father is a perfectionist who won't settle for anything less than the best. "If a donut isn't formed just right, he'll throw it out."

That insistence on a quality product isn't surprising for a man who learned to work hard without reward.

"In Cambodia you worked 12 hours for no money, no food," said Kem, adding that the standard meal was rice soup — rice and water. "Here, you work and have money."

He's finding that there are other rewards besides money for a job well done. "Customers say they like it, the donuts are good," he said.

"This is a new life for me, like heaven," Kem said. "I've found the American dream."

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