By Rachael Scobie
The Australian
August 05, 2012
I LIKE all sorts of critters. I'm especially fond of mammals and
right at the top of the tree is the cute and cuddly sun bear - not that
I've ever tried to cuddle one. But I wanted to when I visited the Free
the Bears Sanctuary in Cambodia.
I had to wonder how it is possible to mistreat these beautiful
animals. Without rescue, they would have ended up in a neighbouring
country's bear paw soup.
Cambodia is one of the poorest
countries in Asia and yet there are people who take the time to look
after these endangered animals.
That's the standout thing about
this country: yes, there are phenomenal temples and engaging cities but
it's the warmth and humanity of the people that leaves a lasting memory.
There
was a time when Cambodia's entire human population was endangered.
During the murderous reign of Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge from 1975-79,
currency was abolished, the postal service dismantled and the country
cut off from the outside world.
The population was marshalled into slave-labour camps and put to
work in the countryside. Millions died. These were the Killing Fields.
Sobering,
yes, and so recent that it's hard to think of it as history. Yet, it's
essential for understanding Cambodia barely a generation removed from
those dark and brutal days.
I began my visit on the outskirts of
the capital, Phnom Penh. Here, in a dusty field, is the Memorial Stupa
of Choeung Ek, a pagoda filled with 8000 skulls - a haunting reminder of
the horrors this land has seen.
The Phnom Penh of today is a far
cry from the deserted shell of a city repopulated in 1979. It bustles
with commerce, traffic and the cry of market vendors.
I was up
early, following the whisper of the tai-chi women to the Mekong River
boardwalk. In sweeping arches, as graceful as the gold-dipped Royal
Palace, they welcomed the sun.
With smiles and shy greetings they
asked me to join in. But I had much to see before I could stop and
stretch. The palace and Silver Pagoda or Phnom Penh's beckoning shops? I
couldn't resist either.
The palace is also the official
residence of Cambodia's King Sihamoni. Parts of the complex are
off-limits but the throne room and the Silver Pagoda are dazzling.
After
the Khmer Rouge era, the Silver Pagoda is one of the few places in
Cambodia with an intact collection of ancient Khmer art. It's a must-see
on any Phnom Penh tour.
So are the shops. There's the Russian
Market (souvenirs and fakes) or the Central Market (delicious and
photogenic quantities of the freshest fruits and vegies) or the
fashionable boutiques - French colonial shop-houses, exquisitely
restored and converted along Street 240.
Many of these are shops-with-a-cause. They support not-for-profit charities, including disabled war victims and AIDS orphans.
Afterwards,
it was back to the riverfront for a sundowner. To the north of the
palace is restaurant row, a happening strip of bars and cafes. It's the
perfect place to chat with the locals while planning a visit to
Cambodia's piece de resistance.
Up-country, near the northern
extremity of Lake Tonle Sap, is the elegantly ramshackle town of Siem
Reap Cambodia's tourist central. It's easily accessible by plane or bus
or riverboat. It has gorgeous architecture, great hotels and an
inspired "foodies district" known as Bar St.
But it's Siem Reap's neighbour, Angkor Wat, that draws travellers.
Angkor
Wat is Asia's largest temple, ranked with the pyramids of Egypt and
Petra in Jordan. Magical in any light, but particularly when set against
the rising sun, it should be on everybody's bucket list. It induces a
treasure-trove of superlatives from the moment your moto - a Cambodian
tuk-tuk - delivers you to the causeway entrance, until the minute you
drag yourself back out across the moat.
And yet, Angkor Wat is
only the beginning. Like many tourists, I was unaware of the vast scale
of Angkor Thom: the city - a jungle-clad plain of stone temples and
palaces, once home to more than a million people.
The peak of
civilisation was between the 10th and 12th centuries and one wonders how
the locals got around. The distances are so great that a moto is an
essential and fun way to see the countryside and get from temple to
palace to temple.
The Bayon was my favourite, a maze of twisted corridors and staircases hidden beneath overhanging roots and vines.
There
are 54 gothic towers, decorated with 216 faces of the deity
Avalokiteshvara. It's an evocative place where the stonework bears an
uncanny resemblance to the Angkorian ruler of the time.
The faces
of Avalokiteshvara are smiling, just like the faces of the Cambodian
people I met on my journey. For, despite the bleakness of their recent
history, the Khmer are a wonderfully welcoming people. That's the legacy
of this land. Like the sun bears in the sanctuary, I was enveloped in
warmth and humanity that easily overshadowed some of mankind's darker
moments.
---
Go2
CAMBODIA
Getting there
Thai Airways flies from Sydney to Bangkok, with connections to Phnom Penh.
Ph 1300 651 960 or see www.thaiairways.com.au
Ph 1300 651 960 or see www.thaiairways.com.au
Doing there
World
Expeditions' six-day Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat trip costs $790 a person
(excluding flights). Highlights include the palaces and pagodas of
Phnom Penh, the temples of Angkor Wat and many historical sights.
See worldexpeditions.com or ph 1300 720 000.
See worldexpeditions.com or ph 1300 720 000.
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