August 16, 2012
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Far from the gleaming skyscrapers of modern Southeast Asian capitals
such as Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh is a
dusty and edgy yet somewhat enchanting city of crumbling colonial
architecture, wide boulevards and chaotic markets.
Phnom Penh riverside at dusk
It
is gradually modernising, with a few contemporary skyscrapers appearing
on the skyline and the popular riverside promenade (Sisowath Quay) now
lined with lively cafés, juice bars, hostels, hotels and restaurants –
many of them filled with backpackers and other travellers. Despite that,
however, Phnom Penh still has an edge and atmosphere found in few other
Southeast Asian capitals. Some elements of the city are quite charming,
such as the ramshackle market stalls and historic temples, while others
can prove to be quite the opposite: tiny children gathering recycling
from bins to make a few Riel for their family, and amputee beggars vying
for tourists’ pockets.
While most visits to the city are
trouble-free, always watch your pockets and bags as there is a great
deal of poverty in Phnom Penh that gives rise to opportunist theft. At
the same time, look after your health by following the usual travel
health tips such as avoiding ice in drinks (unless it’s from a trusted
source) and always using a good mosquito repellent , particularly from dusk onwards, to protect yourself against malaria and dengue fever.
Silver Pagoda at the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh
The main tourist sights of Phnom Penh
Dominating the city centre’s sightseeing attractions is the 19th century Royal Palace,
including the fabulous Palace Grounds, Silver Pagoda and Temple of the
Emerald Buddha. It’s open from 8am, and this is the best time to visit
to avoid the heat. You’ll need to wear something decent to cover legs
and shoulders, or you can hire a sarong and large t-shirt for a small
fee at the entrance.
Another central sight is the National Museum of Cambodia,
which features an interesting collection of art from Cambodia’s ‘Golden
Age’ of Angkor, alongside statues of Hindu Gods, ancient inscribed
tablets and prehistoric burial artefacts. At its centre there is a
lovely courtyard with a statue of Yama, the Hindu god of death (or the
‘Leper King’) taken from the Terrace of the Leper King in Angkor
Archaeological Park.
Garden at the National Museum of Cambodia
A
must-see sight for anyone who wants to better understand Cambodia’s
horrific past during the Khmer Rouge’s four-year campaign of terror is
the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This school, which was
converted into the country’s most notorious prison (‘S21′) in 1975,
housed more than 14,000 people who were tortured and then killed and
buried at the Killing Fields just outside of the city. Only eight
prisoners made it out of the prison alive.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
You can hire a taxi or tuk-tuk for the 17km trip out of town to the tranquil yet moving Killing Fields of Choeung Ek.
A glass-sided Buddhist stupa containing thousands of human skulls lies
at the heart of the mass graves that were discovered in 1979.
Perhaps
one of the city’s most bizarre attractions, which commission-earning
tuk-tuk drivers will be quick to tell you about and encourage you to
visit, is the Thunder Ranch Shooting Range. Situated
near the Killing Fields, it is said to be run by a unit of the Royal
Cambodian Army, and for a relatively high fee you can try shooting
pistols or machine guns at paper targets. Many tuk-tuk drivers will try
to include it in a ‘package’ with the Killing Fields, but if you don’t
want to go there just make it clear that you’re not interested.
And relax…
After
a hard day’s sightseeing, treat your aching limbs to a massage – there
are plenty of spa places around the main tourist areas, prices are
cheap, and the massage is generally very relaxing.
This post is brought to you by Gap Year Travel Store – where you can find equipment for backpackers and independent travellers
Photo credits: Phnom Penh riverside by judithbluepool, Silver Pagoda by Kirk Siang, National Museum Garden by mookE, Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum by timmarec.
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1 comment:
Authoriy should fine people who throw trash and shit on river bank...Its disgusting!!
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