A Change of Guard

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Sunday 8 April 2012

Cambodian cuisine hits mark [in New Zealand]

Top: Authentic Cambodian cuisine is served up in a modern cafe setting.


Bottom: Under the palms, diners enjoy an outdoor experience at the Black Sand cafe.

By LOUISE BELAY
Last updated 08/04/2012

Raglan's night time dining scene has a life at last. Not one but three daytime stalwarts have opened their doors and extended their hours and menus into the early autumn evenings.

One in particular, Black Sand, surprised us by turning from Euro/Kiwi cafe by day and going mostly Cambodian by night. A brave move but one which has had people talking, and ordering from a simple menu of Cambodian favourites like Lok Lak, a beef salad, the popular curry Char Kreoung, and Thai favourites including red, green and yellow curries and authentic Tom Yum soup. The modest but well-considered cafe drinks list, counter cakes and a BYO option complete the picture. The environment may be unexpected but it's busy most nights and the takeaways are flying out the door.

Black Sand's Cambodian owner Vibolrith-Hem works elsewhere by day and goes solo in the kitchen from 5pm on Tuesday to Saturday to cook a simple yet adequate menu. The choices on the menu are dishes he knows and loves and the care he takes in preparation is evident.

Recently we went there for dinner and enjoyed a special of jumbo-sized Vietnamese-style rice paper rolls stuffed with vermicelli, coriander, prawns and chicken with a nuoc cham dipping sauce modestly priced at $8.90. They easily outshone a dish of mini pan-fried fish cakes ($7) on the appetisers section of the menu.

Our waiter was cheerful, friendly and the service was fast. Very fast. In a few short minutes, two curries are landed before us and our empty plates and glasses are stacked before our eyes and whisked away. Better table service would really add to the experience here.

Our curries were a visual feast. The char kreoung with chicken ($24) and a very generous amount of tender-crisp fresh green beans was fragrant with lemongrass, garlic, lime leaves and gently heated with a moderate dose of chilli. A small yet adequate dome of steamed white rice on a generous plate added to a meal that was enjoyment itself. Mario's choice, the spicy char k'dout, ($24) featured a generous amount of finely sliced beef and landed a heady kick of garlic-infused chilli with generous amounts of perfumed lemongrass, and lime.

For dessert, the cafe counter baking is offered but our waiter announced an unlisted special dessert of deep fried bananas with vanilla icecream and berry sauce. Mario launched gleefully into a jumbo sized serving, stacked with surprisingly light, crisp and not-greasy-at-all, battered bananas and mounds of mouth-soothing vanilla ice-cream streaked with deep pink syrup. Just the thing after a fiery char k'dout.

THE WRAP

Where: Blacksand Cafe, 17 Bow Street, Raglan. Phone 07 825 8588. Open seven days for breakfast and lunch from 7.30am. Dinner and takeaways from 5pm until late Tuesday-Saturday.

Food: The night menu with its fragrant, homemade and authentic Cambodian/Asian curries, soups, salads and starters is worth exploring. All mains are served with rice and available as takeaways. Chilli heat is negotiable.

Drink: Cafe inspired: Good coffee, a short but well-considered range of wine and beers, juices and teas. Licensed and BYO.

Bonus: Authentic Cambodian cuisine in a spacious cafe setting.

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