Travel for a cause

Lin Zhaowei
Journalist

January 21, 2010 Thursday
The Straits Times

Lin Zhaowei helps the less fortunate in between temple visits in Cambodia.

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THE key to having a good time visiting Cambodia's famous Angkor temples is to first find a good Tuk-tuk driver, because you need one to get around. Having a friendly and reliable driver who can speak good enough English will ensure you have a smooth and fuss-free vacation.

The other key, perhaps, is to do your bit for the underprivileged if you can.

Cambodia is now on the path to greater economic development, but poverty is still widespread — 40 per cent of the population still lived under the poverty line in 2005, according to UNICEF.

And there are plenty of opportunities even if you don't look too hard for them:

1. Attend a concert by Beatocello

On the way to Angkor from Siem Reap, you will probably spot signs outside a relatively modern but blocky building promoting a concert with "free entry" every Saturday. Well, it's true that the concert is free, but you're unlikely to leave without taking out your wallet.

Come in for a free concert! PHOTO: Lin Zhaowei

The hospital is the Jayavarman VII Hospital, one of five hospitals run by Swiss doctor Beat Richner that treats sick children 100 per cent free of charge.

Dr Richner worked in Phnom Penh as a young doctor in 1974, but was forced to leave the year after as the Khmer Rouge swept into the city. He returned to Cambodia in 1991 at the request of the Cambodian government to help set up the first of the hospitals for children.

Their operations have slowly expanded to include more advanced facilities and services. Between 1993 and 2008, over 8 million children have been treated, with 550,000 deaths prevented, according to Dr Richner.

To raise funds, however, Dr Richner picked up his cello again — he was a mini-celebrity back in Switzerland — and begun to perform for various audiences. The concert at Jayavarman is targetted at the one million tourists who visit Angkor every year.

Dr Beat Richner, also known as Beatocello, talks to the audience during the concert. PHOTO: Lin Zhaowei

In between classical pieces at the free concert at Jayavarman VII, he tells of the difficulties faced by his foundation in raising funds for the hospitals. He also shares his disbelief with certain international organisations that say his medical facilities are too advanced for a poor country like Cambodia — it seems very warped to me as well.

Dr Richner also peppers his serious speeches with humour, at one point asking that the young tourists donate their blood, the old ones their money, and the ones in between, both.

While it is too late to donate any blood after the concert, you can buy some merchandise to support the cause. There are T-shirts, documentary DVDs, CDs of Beatocello's recordings and books written by the doctor chronicling the trials and tribulations of setting up the hospitals. Prices range from US$5 to US$10.

You can find out more about Dr Richner and the hospitals by visiting his website.

The cello waits for another week. PHOTO: Lin Zhaowei

2. Go for a massage at Krousar Thmey

Tired after spending a day exploring the temples at Angkor? How about unwinding with a soothing massage on your way back to town?

The Krousar Thmey (meaning "New Family") is an NGO that provides support for abandoned and orphaned children, as well as the blind and deaf in Cambodia. It runs an exhibition centre, which offers a wealth of information about Tonle Sap lake's ecology and the people who live there. It is located close to the Jayavarman VII hospital and you will pass by on the way back from Angkor.

Here you will also find a massage parlour run by blind massage therapists. I decided to go for the one-hour full-body massage, which cost me just US$7. I needed that after three days of walking around Angkor! It was totally refreshing and I would have gone back again the next day if I had time.

You can find out more about Krousar Thmey at their website.

3. Enjoy a good meal with Friends

Located in Phnom Penh's bustling riverside district, near the National Museum, the restaurant serves up a nice selection of Cambodian and western dishes. It is run by the Mith Samlanh NGO, which trains and employs former street youth. Working at the restaurant prepares the youths for future employment.

The chicken with mango was delicious. PHOTO: Lin Zhaowei

It is a little more expensive than other places due to the small portions, but it won't cost you more than a meal at a typical restaurant in Singapore. And the food was great.

After a hearty meal, stroll over to Friends n' Stuff, also run by the same NGO. Located just a block away, the shop sells a collection of bags and accessories, most of them hand-made. I picked up a sling bag made from comic book scraps for US$13.

You can find more information on Mith Samlanh at their website.

There you have it.

The best thing is, you don't even have to go out of your way to do some good during your trip. But of course, if you are interested in doing a little more, like donating useful items such as stationery or rice to an orphanage, you can ask your tuk-tuk driver to facilitate.

Just a tip: One social worker at an orphanage near Siem Reap told me that corruption is still rampant, so it is always better to hand your donated items directly to the beneficiaries.

Happy travels.

Street kids outside the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek in Phnom Penh. PHOTO: Lin Zhaowei