Echoes of Chez Sovan in Scotts Valley

Jia Tella menu is new, and familiar
By Steven Chae
Mercury News


Freely sharing one's inspirations can be a risky thing. But Jason Revino, owner of Jia Tella's Cambodian restaurant in Scotts Valley, doesn't mind revealing that his muse is the San Jose restaurants of Chez Sovan.
The two Sovans, now run independently, have introduced - and immediately hooked - legions of devotees with their unique yet easily referenced Cambodian food.
Revino was one of those fans. When he was working a sales job in San Jose, he often took clients to the Oakland Road Chez Sovan, renowned for its refined food served in a bunker-like setting. He was struck by the broad appeal of the food.
"I probably took 80 clients there, and every single one loved it," he said.
Inspired, Revino opened Jia Tella's in the Scotts Valley Junction center about six months ago. The space is lively, with vibrant art and modern pendant lights - a far cry from the gritty urban setting of the original. If Sovan is Delta blues, Jia Tella's is rock and roll - and I like it.
Sovan regulars will recognize many menu items at Jia Tella's - Revino says some recipes were purchased from the Bascom Avenue Sovan.
The chicken curry stew ($11.95), possibly Chez Sovan's signature dish, is recreated with falling-apart tender thigh meat, potatoes and carrots in a luscious yellow curry sauce. Long after the bits were gone, leftover sauce spooned over jasmine rice (brown rice is also offered) was nearly as satisfying.
But the Scotts Valley chefs clearly bring their own skill and experience to the menu, too. Take the salmon tamarind ($11.95), an expertly cooked piece of fish with a mild, tart sauce that drew mixed reactions. Some liked it, others felt the sauce didn't mesh well with the hearty flavor of the dish.
At Jia Tella's, they aren't just playing covers.
Jia Tella's Cambodian Cuisine
18 Victor Square, Space D, at Scotts Valley Drive, Scotts Valley. (831) 438-5005.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
Types of food: Cambodian soups, skewers, stir-frys, stews, and fish dishes.
Average meal price: About $12 (dishes served family-style).
Good choices: Curry stew, skewers, soup, stir-frys.
Not recommended: Spring rolls with mushy, bland filling.
Attitude: Friendly and upbeat, though servers can be stretched thin.
Amenities: Outdoor patio in the works.
Vegetarian options: All sauces are vegetable-based, and most dishes can be made with tofu or fish.
Drinks: Soda, draft beer, wine, iced tea and coffee.
Next-day edibility: Stews, stir-frys should be fine.
Credit cards: Yes.
Parking: Shopping center lot.
Restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously. The Mercury News pays for all meals.
Contact Steven Chae at schae@mercurynews.com or (408) 920-5966.