A Change of Guard

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Monday 28 January 2013

Cambodia’s private island retreat, Song Saa, proves country has more to offer than temples

27 Jan, 2013, http://economictimes.indiatimes.com
BY SUSHMITA CHOUDHURY AGARWAL,ET Bureau
Nestled in the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand, about a 40-minute speedboat ride from Sihanoukville port, this new resort marries luxury with sustainability.
Nestled in the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand, about a 40-minute speedboat ride from Sihanoukville port, this new resort marries luxury with sustainability.
Some would say Cambodia first arrived on the tourist map back in 1907, when the then French protectorate regained Siem Reap from Siam (Thailand), and over 200 visitors poured in to view ancient temples gradually being freed from the encroaching jungles.

Others pitch the starting point at 1953, when Cambodia gained independence, but the tourist boom of 1960s soon lost steam due to the neighbouring Vietnam war followed by the genocide under Pol Pot between 1975 and 1979 and the ensuing civil war which ended in 1991. A year later, the UNESCO declared Angkor Wat temple complex a World Heritage Site, and gave a shot in the arm to a country struggling to shake off the nightmare that was Khmer Rouge.

Luxury at its Best

Back in 1994, just 1.76 lakh (176,000) international tourists visited Cambodia but by November 2012, the footfalls increased 1,712%. A majority of these visitors make a pit stop at Phnom Penh and fulfill their craving for the heebie jeebies at the Killing Fields before rushing off to Siem Reap, the closest town to the temple wonders. A few make time for the laidback charm and the bamboo train at Battambang. Fewer yet venture southwards to the hills of Kampot and the beaches of Sihanoukville. But since March 2012, private jet tourists have found a new reason to land in Cambodia: Song Saa Private Island.

Nestled in the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand, about a 40-minute speedboat ride from Sihanoukville port, this new resort marries luxury with sustainability. Think jungle villas offering spellbinding seascape views through a rainforest canopy that was largely untouched during the building stage. Think Maldives-like overwater villas without their overrun, peas-in-a-pod feel. Think ocean-view villas with a spit of private white sand beach overlooking a marine protected area.

In Lap of Nature


This reserve, covering a million square metres, is a first for Cambodia and the resort's in-house marine biologist is now engaged in an education programme to teach local fishermen sustainable methods to ensure fish stocks remain healthy without disturbing the natural habitat. The resort spans two islands, Koh Ouen and Koh Bong, connected by a long, curving footbridge. While the former houses the accommodation and dining options, the other island is a protected forest. Though there are several other untouched islands in the Koh Rong Archipelago, Song Saa is the first to capitalise on the sun-and-surf potential.

Everywhere you look there are references to the colours and textures of Cambodia's traditional fishing villages with their pitched roofs and open plan living spaces.

If you are on a diet, you might as well postpone plans to visit Song Saa till you are ready to indulge. Because this is foodie heaven. And you don't have to deal with boring buffets either. While there is a choice of two F&B options, the staff on the island are only too happy to set up a private dinner at a location of your choice. Imagine watching the cook do his number on a Japanese 'hibachi' grill for a private beach dinner. Or you could choose to dine-in while enjoying an outdoor film experience at your villa with a sail screen and projector.

Sing Along

Here is a sample itinerary to help you hash out your journey: Arrive at Phnom Penh and keep at least two nights in the city. Keep aside one day for the city sights such as the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the National Museum, Wat Phnom and the Russian Market. Another full day will go in discovering Tour Sleng, a Khmer Rouge prison with only seven known survivors, and the Killing Fields where most of the 17,000-20,000 inmates were hacked to death and buried in mass graves. On the third day, hire a taxi for the four-hour drive down to Sihanoukville on the third day. If you have time, stay a night or two in Kampot or Kep before pushing on to Sihanoukville port. From here you board the luxury speedboat that will take you to Song Saa. On the return leg, avail of the complimentary airport transfer facility to get dropped off at the relatively-new airport just outside of Sihanoukville, and catch a flight to Siem Reap.

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