A Change of Guard

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Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Finding Calm in Cambodia’s Capital

By Rachel Will 
The Wall Street Journal
October 3, 2012,
Jean-Francois Perigois
The Marilyn suite at the Governor’s Residence in Phnom Penh. 
Stays explores Asia’s new and noteworthy hotels and resorts. See previous articles
PHNOM PENH – With just 10 rooms, Governor’s House is one of several boutique stays to have cropped up in Cambodia’s capital in recent years. Built in 1990 as the home of a local senator, the three-story property was substantially remodeled last year and opened its doors as a tranquil, colonial-inspired hotel in June under the ownership of Belgian designer Alain Garnier.

Jean-Francois Perigois
The colonial-inspired property was converted from a former senator’s home.
The Design: Guests arrive through a low-key white gate, just wide enough to fit a single car, and are greeted with a black-columned façade and a white Hindu sculpture of an elephant. Wandering inside, the interior exudes colonial comfort in the form of buttery leather chairs, dark wood paneling and an 18th century Louis XIV armoire showcasing antique Chinese porcelain and artifacts from Angkor Wat. A dramatic dripping chandelier hangs in the lobby, while hallways are punctuated with intricate objets d’art from French Indochina. A glass-encased dining room looks out onto airy poolside cabanas decked out with cloth drapes.
The Rooms: Whereas the hotel’s common areas are faithfully colonial in feel, the rooms adopt a more liberal interpretation of the past. Each is named for a historical figure or celebrity, from which it takes its decorative cues: For instance, the Hemingway room has brass furnishings and a sturdy wooden desk – presumably for writing that short story – while the Winston room offers original English colonial antiques and a four-poster bed. Framed black-and-white pictures of Marilyn Monroe define the Marilyn suite, which also benefits from a crimson Jacuzzi tub and an outdoor balcony overlooking the pool. For sun worshipers, the Kipling and Duras rooms have private sundecks. While there’s no elevator at the hotel, all rooms offer the mod-cons: Wi-Fi, LED TVs, air-conditioning and king-size beds bedecked with Belgian linens.
The Location: For guests ensconced within the hotel’s tranquil grounds, it’s easy to forget that it’s sited at a bustling intersection lined with tuk-tuk drivers and roadside vendors. The address, in the well-heeled residential neighborhood of Boeung Keng Kong I (known to locals as BKK I), means you’re never far away from boutiques, bars and upscale eateries. Phnom Penh’s historic district, where you can visit the Royal Palace and quaint riverside quay, is just a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride away.
Our Tip: After a day of experiencing Phnom Penh’s ambient chaos, be sure to make the most of the hotel’s tranquil common spaces. The poolside cabanas invite daytime lounging, while the first floor balcony is perfect for a hushed nightcap.
Getting There: The hotel is 30 minutes by car from Phnom Penh’s international airport, depending on traffic. Since the city has no formal public transit system, it’s best to pre-arrange transport to avoid unscrupulous touts: The hotel can organize airport pickup for $25 one way. For those familiar with the city, the going price is $9 for a taxi and $7 for an open-air tuk-tuk ride to the city center.
Governor’s House, Villa 3, Mao Tse Tung Blvd., Sangkat Boeung Keng Kong I, Khan Chamkarmorn, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Tel. +855 23 987 025. From US$130 per night.

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