A Change of Guard

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Thursday, 10 June 2010

Apsara Restaurant puts focus on fresh ingredients

Thursday, June 10, 2010

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Vinh Ly of Worcester is the chef/general manager of Apsara, 264 Park Ave., Worcester, which features Vietnamese and Cambodian cuisine. (T&G Staff/JIM COLLINS)


Apsara, 264 Park Ave., Worcester, is all about Vietnamese and Cambodian cuisine.

The restaurant opened earlier this year in the historical building owned and renovated by Stephen Hopkins of Worcester, owner of Blue Jeans Pizza in Worcester. Hopkins’ son, Justin Hopkins, operates Loft 266, the bar and lounge above Apsara.

Vinh Ly of Worcester, chef/general manager of Apsara, brings a healthy mix of light and refreshing flavors to the table. Diners especially will appreciate the fresh ingredients and vibrant flavors in his cooking.

Ly, who was born in Vietnam, graduated from Doherty Memorial High School in Worcester and attended Worcester State College. His immediate family lives in Worcester.

Ly has worked the back of the house at several Worcester restaurants, including Ciao Bella, the Boynton, Leo’s T-Bird Pizza and Blue Jeans Pizza.

Southeast Asian food is where he’s at now. “It’s the food I grew up on,” said Ly, who has made a few changes on Apsara’s menu since opening. He also makes the bar food for Loft 266

Sizzling Mongolian Beef, $13.99, Apsara Trio (beef, pork and chicken in a house marinade and grilled to order), $9.99, and Khmer Curry (chicken, beef, jumbo shrimp or pork sautéed with coconut milk, curry, lemon grass, bell peppers, bamboo shoots and onions), $12.49, are a few of the specials. Khmer Curry is a popular dish at the restaurant, according to Ly.

The menu also house special entrées that include seafood and beef dishes that range from $17.99 to $21.99. Apsara Catfish, small or large, is served crispy (and headless) with vegetables, rice and house sauce. The fresh catfish is market-priced.

House-fried rice, noodle dishes, homemade soups, sides and salads also are featured.

Starters range from grilled quail, $4.49, to fried calamari, $7.49. Summer rolls (2), $4.99, and vegetarian egg rolls, $3.99, and beef on a skewer (3), $4.99, are some of the other options.

Apsara offers luncheon specials, $7.99 each. You can choose from 10 items (cooked under 12 minutes) until 2:30 p.m. on days that lunch is served.

The menu states that most dishes can be substituted with tofu for vegetarians.

Ly recently added a summer drink menu. Cool off with tropical specialties such as a ginger-lime margarita or Apsara colada. The drinks have an Asian influence, according to Ly.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturday; 4:30 to 9 p.m. Sundays and Mondays. Telephone: (508) 752-2211. Takeout and delivery are available.

A sweet ending to dining at Apsara is dessert.

Passion Fruit Cheesecake, Coconut Cake with Mango Purée, Frozen Tri-Color Mousse Terrine and Ginger Green Tea Crème Brûlée are featured desserts made by Something Sweet by Michelle in Worcester.

Owner Michelle Bohigian is an award-winning pastry chef whose wedding cakes have been featured on the covers of national bridal magazines and on the “Today Show.” She is a terrific pastry chef. I recommend you order a couple of desserts to share at your table at Apsara.

I’m glad Ly credits Bohigian for the desserts. Most times when you ask about desserts served in a restaurant the answer is, “Oh, the desserts are homemade.”

Often, they are not.

Another thing about Apsara: The restaurant has a raised platform dining area in the center of the room where diners sit on cushions. Don’t worry about getting up from the floor. Ly said so far no one has had a problem.

I say, enjoy the food and the culture.

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