A Change of Guard

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Tuesday, 2 March 2010

SFoodie's 92: Prahok from Angkor Borei

rsz_prahokk.jpg
Jonas T./Yelp
Complex as carefully made ragu.

​As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here.

Number 56: Prahok from Angkor Borei

Prahok is a fermented fish paste used to season Cambodian dishes. It also sounds like it could be a lost Lord of the Rings character or a comic book character's cough. At local Cambodian standby Angkor Borei, however, prahok lends its name as well as its flavor to a stewed pork dish. Though rich and layered as a well-crafted ragu, this concoction is more dip than sauce, an unattractive grayish puddle that miraculously renders nearly anything else into which you might casually sink a chip insipid by comparison. On a plate, the bowl of prahok sits within a ring of fresh raw vegetables ― cucumber, cabbage, broccoli ― austere crunchy foils, the perfect counterpoint to all that salt, fat, and flavor. A chip would work too, though.

Angkor Borei 3471 Mission (at Cortland), 550-8417

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