History kept at a distance

Closing the Thai entrance to Preah Vihear has proven unpopular, writes Anchalee Kongrut in Si Sa Ket

The scenic Pha Mo E-Daeng, a cliff opposite the Dongrek mountains where the Preah Vihear ruins sit, was noisy on Sunday. That is unusual. Normally the drawcard is atop the temple hill, from where visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of Cambodia.

But since the Preah Vihear sovereignty dispute flared up, and the Cambodian government closed access from Thailand, Pha Mo E-Daeng has been a favourite place for temple spotters.

Visitors can only see the controversial temple from a distance. Some rent binoculars to watch Cambodian soldiers guarding the complex.

A hot topic among visitors last weekend was why the temple did not belong to Thailand, given its location.

''If the whole site belongs to Cambodia, how can they walk up to the temple when the most accessible entrance is from Thailand?'' said Ruen Tiachai, 71, a farmer from Sukhothai.

''The Cambodians must have to climb a rope to enter their temple.''

Scratching his head, Mr Ruen said he cannot understand why the International Court of Justice ruled in favour of Cambodia in 1962.

''Common sense tells me the temple belongs to us. The owner of the house enters the house through the front door. He doesn't climb in,'' he said.

Other visitors were concerned about the overlapping area of 4.6 sq km which has not been settled by the two governments. Despite the dispute, 500 Cambodians managed to erect a village and temple there a decade ago. The village is far from makeshift. Most of the 200 homes there have electricity and television antennas.

''Overlapping area means overlapping business interests,'' said Thananchai Sained, 46, a villager from Ubon Ratchathani.

But no matter what patriotic Thai visitors think, the ancient stone temple is now inscribed as Cambodia's second World Heritage site. The first is the breathtaking Angkor Wat in Siem Reap.

As nationalistic Thais grow enraged that Cambodia walked away with the prize from the World Heritage Committee, local people, particularly those with tourism businesses worry what will happen now.

Most affected are vendors who sell souvenirs and food to tourists in Thailand's Preah Vihear national park. Each of the 60 shops there typically earned at least 5,000 baht a day on weekends and 2,000 baht on weekdays.

Vasana Limthongsood, 28, a food vendor, said the market has been closed for more than three weeks.

There is no sign the Cambodian government will reopen the gate. ''I don't know what to do,'' she said.

Local people are thinking a few years ahead, when Cambodia is expected to finish a 118km road to bring in tourists from their side.

The Cambodian government wants to make Preah Vihear a tourist magnet, with better access from Cambodia. A cable car will be built to take visitors up the 522-metre-high cliff where the temple stands.

''I bet Cambodia will close the gate on the Thailand side eventually, or start charging high prices for entry tickets,'' said Sawai Chaowarak, 52, a Si Sa Ket native.

''Then we will lose our business opportunity. After the close relationship between Cambodians and Thais on the border, the Cambodian government will shut the door in our face,'' she said.

For decades, and regardless of the world court's verdict, the Preah Vihear area has been an international zone where citizens of both countries freely crossed the border.

Many Kantharalak district natives speak Khmer and people from both countries have cross-married.

Thai villagers even do merit-making at temples in Cambodia, while Cambodians often go to the hospital in Si Sa Ket and do shopping in the province. That, too, could change as Cambodians develop the area, said Vichin Prasarnjit, 53, of Si Sa Ket.

If anyone approaches the Cambodian village, they will hear loud voices from the lively community. On Thai soil, the atmosphere is different. Since the area was declared a national park almost a decade ago, the area fell quiet after local villagers were removed.

Soldiers complain about poaching and Cambodians trying to populate land in the disputed area.

For Mr Vichin, the authorities, after missteps and non-transparency, still have a final chance to serve the country.

''The government must clear up the dispute over border demarcation and overlapping land rights. The sooner, the better,'' he said.